YOUR CHANCE TO ASK THE DIVA

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am a transgender who has been prescribed hormone therapy, which consists of testosterone to suppress female sex characteristics. What can I do to prepare my skin, and what should I expect?

Masculinizing - Gina R.

Dear Masculinizing,

I am so glad you asked this question, as I truly believe it is important to have an established relationship with your dermatologist before starting any hormonal therapy. A study found that almost 30% of individuals starting testosterone hormonal therapy were prone to developing acne, with an increased risk of those under the age of 21. Though more studies are needed to find the most effective treatment options, it is better to be proactive than reactive. You may also experience increased hair growth to the face and hair loss to the scalp.

Diva Tip: Starting on an acne regimen for control is a wise approach when starting hormonal therapy. Visit us virtually or in person at Advanced Dermatology & Aesthetic Medicine. Schedule your appointment today!

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I see a lot of information about Gut Health and Skin. Can you please enlighten me on these associations?

Gut Reactions - David W.

Dear Gut Reactions,

Studies relating to impairment of skin barrier and inflammation can result from dysbiosis, which is the imbalance of the normal gut flora. Prebiotics such as Blue Spirulina, as well as others, is taking the internet by storm as the research has found these may provide the "good" microflora in the gut the nutrients it needs to protect against a compromised barrier in the gut (aka "Leaky Gut") which can lead to exacerbations of many inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Again, more studies are needed. This is not FDA approved, so do your research and use a reputable supplier and always speak with your provider before starting any supplements as they can interact with your prescriptions or exacerbate other conditions.

Diva Tip: Blue Spirulina is the next superfood of the future. It is an extracted protein from Spirulina which is a blue-green alga. It's nutrient-dense, and studies are finding many benefits such as anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant properties. Check out Oceanrx.us to learn more.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Can you please tell me the difference between dry and dehydrated skin?

Feeling Flaky - Dana V.

Dear Feeling Flaky,

This is a great question that many people do not know the difference. Both can be dull, flaky, sensitive, feel tight, and maybe even itch. Dry skin is more of a biological skin type that is usually dry all over. This skin type typically responds best to oil-rich products like certain serums in addition to a rich barrier cream. As far as dehydrated skin, it can happen in all skin types and be more a combination of oily and dry skin. Worse yet, you may even experience acne. Dehydrated skin responds best to water-rich products. A Hyaluronic acid serum is a great adjunct treatment prior to your moisturizers for either skin type.

Diva Tip: If your skin is not improving, make sure you schedule a visit with a Board-Certified Dermatologist to get it evaluated. keep that skin barrier strong.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am finally looking into getting laser treatments to my face to reduce the redness, irregular color, and decrease pore size. Do you recommend a cost-effective laser that could do all of that at the same time?

Needing Laser Treatments - Christina L.

Dear Needing Laser Treatments,

I have the perfect recommendation for you. The Aerolase NeoElite laser system is not only effective to target your concerns plus more BUT cost-efficient so that you can continue your treatments to maintain your results. It's perfect for all skin types and colors. Not only does it reduce blemishes, redness, brown spots. It also evens out skin tone and adds a glow to your skin. It's a fun, quick, painless way to get your skin radiant and maintain the glow with regular treatments.

Diva Tip: Advanced Dermatology & Aesthetic Medicine in the South Loop offers Aerolase NeoElite Treatments. Schedule your free consult today.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

My skin has been an absolute pimple mess with the increased use of wearing a mask to keep me safe from COVID. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Need Pimple Control, Monica F.

Dear Need Pimple Control,

Our clinic has seen an exponential increase in MASKNE which is acne caused by increased use of wearing a face covering. Maskne is a result of several factors: breathing causing increased moisture along with the entrapment of oils, bacteria, and dead skin cells can create the perfect skin clogging storm. Adding constant friction leads to inflammation of the sebaceous glands which can also result in acne flares. First of all, make sure you are changing your mask out frequently throughout the day. If it is disposable, dispose of it after one use. If you are wearing a cloth mask, please wash it after each use. You can set a time to do this every 15 minutes to 4 hours, whichever works best for you. Using a gentle cleanser after removing your mask helps remove the excess oil, bacteria from the area. If you do not have time to wash your face, using an AHA pad for a quick wipe down to the area will do. Also, the use of a non-comedogenic moisturizer with ceramides is imperative to help keep the skin barrier at its healthiest. A disrupted barrier can lead to irritation and more inflammation. If you are not getting better, please schedule an appointment with a Board Certified Dermatologist.

Diva Tip:

Check out the MASKNE Kit I put together from our Dermatology office. The perfect combo to prevent facial congestion and to keep that skin barrier strong.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Can you recommend the best protocol for adolescent acne? My daughter not a fan of meds, yet she needs something to protect against scarring while in her teens.

A Father's Acne Concern, Joe K.

Dear A Father's Acne Concern,

How sweet of you to be proactive with your daughter's skin transition into adulthood. First of all, basics are essential, such as cleansing and moisturizing two times a day and wearing sunscreen. Depending on the type of acne your daughter is experiencing can also drive the type of treatment she needs. I will give a basic OTC recommendation to start to help prevent the congestion of pores that can lead to larger acne bumps. Neutrogena's Salicylic acid wash one time a day in the morning is a great one to start with. You can use a gentle cleanser such as CeraVe gentle wash in the evening. As I mentioned, moisturizer is essential no matter your skin type, and using a non-comedogenic moisturizer such as CeraVe PM or our Ultra-Lite moisturizer two times a day would be perfect. In the evening, after washing your face with a gentle cleanser and patting dry, use Differin gel 0.1% by applying a pea-size amount to the entire face, follow this up with a moisturizer. If the skin feels greasy or oily throughout the day, you may add our Alpha/Beta Pads to do a quick wipe down of the skin. Don't forget the sunscreen. A DIVA favorite for Acne-prone skin is EltaMD UV Clear.

Diva Tip:

1: Remember to be patient with your regimen and compliant. You may get a purge of your acne when the treatment starts.

2: If you are not getting better after at least 4 weeks of use, schedule an in-office or virtual appointment with me.

3: Get an additional 10% off with code ADAM10 and free shipping with code DERMDIVA for EltaMD, and ADAM products (Ultra-Lite Hydration and Alpha/Beta Pads).

4: OTC Products can also be found via my Amazon Page.*💋

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am reading about supplements containing Spirulina. Can this be of some benefit to my skin?

Curious about Spirulina, Margeaux K.

Dear Curious about Spirulina,

Spirulina is a blue-green algae that has been used for centuries as a food and dietary supplement in Asia, Africa, and South America. Research on extracts of Spirulina has shown promising results in anti-aging properties, including protection from UV radiation damage (though not a replacement to sunscreen but something you use WITH sunscreen for added protection and quicker skin recovery). Though more studies are needed with supplements in general, I would hone in on a component of Spirulina known as Phycocyanin. This Is a "blue" protein extracted from Spirulina that is a powerful antioxidant and, when taken orally, may not only give you extra anti-aging protection but may also boost your immune system. Phycocyanin is regarded as a safe, natural dietary supplement and is already widely used in the vegan community - it gives your smoothie a wonderful blue color - and it's good for you!

Diva Tip: Learn more about Ocean Rx Phycocyanin HERE! Be ready to experience purity! It is a powerful prebiotic which can lead to a healthy gut = healthy skin.💋

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I need your help! Winter is approaching, and my hands and cuticles get super dry. Do you have any tips for me to help prevent splitting and cracking?

Approaching Seasonal Dryness, Heidi S.

Dear Approaching Seasonal Dryness, Heidi S,

The best tip is to protect your hands from the cold and dry elements. When the atmosphere becomes dry, the air starts pulling moisture from anything it can find, and your skin is a prime target. Not only do I advise to moisturize at least twice a day, but placing petroleum jelly such as Aquaphor over the moisturizer, especially in increased areas prone to dryness such as cuticles, lips, eyelids, elbows, and feet. Don’t forget to wear your gloves!!

Diva Tip: Aquaphor has an amazing spray-on formulation. But for best results, always apply it after you moisturize. A fave is Eucerin Advanced Repair cream. Find Aquaphor and hand moisturizer faves at my Amazon Store.*💋

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Do you have any tips that I can use to prevent an eczema flare?

Constantly Flaring, Regine S.

Dear Constantly Flaring,

This question is perfect because October is Eczema Awareness Month. Over 30 million people are suffering from eczema in the United States alone. Though this a chronic condition that waxes and wanes, you can use these simple tips to prevent severe flares. First of all, always make sure you see your Board Certified Dermatologist to rule out anything else that may be going on. The best prevention tips I can provide are: Moisturizing your skin at least once a day, especially immediately after you bathe. With the cooler weather, you may want to invest in a humidifier so that the air is not so dry as this can pull more moisture out of the skin. Monitor and avoid triggers such as scratchy clothing, harsh soaps, and even some foods. Last, of all, make sure you are managing your stress as this can exacerbate your symptoms.

Diva Tip: To learn more about eczema, make sure you visit the National Eczema Association.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

With many steps needed for taking care of one's skin, what would you say is the essential anti-aging component and why?

-Curious about Skincare, Stephanie S.

Dear Curious about Skincare,

If I were to be stranded on an island and had the choice of ONE product, it would be a Broad-Spectrum SPF 30. In my opinion, the most critical component of good skin care is your sunscreen. A Broad-Spectrum can help prevent further damage to your skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and, more importantly, decrease the risk of developing skin cancer. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, if you wear at least an SPF of 15, you are reducing your chances of non-melanoma skin cancer by 40% and melanoma by 50%. My favorites include Mineral-based SPF 30 + (i.e., Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide), which are also considered a physical block. However, you have to make sure you reapply every 1-2 hours for it even to be effective.

Diva Tip: Combining a board spectrum SPF every day with your skin care regimen can maximize and preserve your results.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I keep seeing the acronym UPF on clothing. What does this exactly mean, and why is it essential for sun protection?

–Tim B., Curious about UPF

Dear Curious about UPF,

UPF or Ultraviolet Protection Factor found in clothing has become more popular with companies such as Coolibar, offering stylish options for sun protection. UPF is dependent on how tightly woven the garment is, the color, weight, and active ingredients found in sunscreens (like sun-bouncing minerals, titanium dioxide, and zinc dioxide) which are infused at the fiber or fabric level. With high-quality UPF 50+ clothing, you are protecting your skin from 98% of UVA/UVB ray penetration for as long as you’re wearing it because the protection never washes out or wears away. Because UV rays from the sun increase a person’s risk of developing skin cancer wearing UPF clothing is an excellent option for people who spend a lot of time outdoors, but remember, you still need a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 for the areas exposed to the sun.

Diva Tip: Check out the fashionable finds for men, women, children, and babies at Coolibar 💋

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Now that I have been wearing a mask to protect myself from COVID-19, I have noticed an increase of acne flares to my jawline. I usually do not have issues with acne, and this is so frustrating. So not only am I wearing a mask to prevent the coronavirus, I need it to hide all of my pimples. Please help!

-Masking Flares. Amber B.

Dear Masking Flares,

You bring up an excellent topic for Acne Awareness Month happening in June! I am sorry to hear your frustrating acne flares, as they occur when dust, oil, germs get trapped, and the skin is continuously getting rubbed by the mask. This scenario causes clogging and an inflammatory response that can lead to developing pimples. The best thing you can do is use a salicylic acid product such as a wash or a leave-on such as an OTC Neutrogena product. You can also get our Alpha Beta pads which have both salicylic acid and glycolic acid to wipe your lower face, chin, and neck area daily to prevent further breakouts. Lastly, it is always so important to wash your face before going to bed to remove the debris that has accumulated to your skin. If flares continue despite your OTC attempt, it is best to see a Board-Certified Dermatologist or their Dermatology PA-C/NP. Telemedicine appointments are available to address your concerns straight away.

Diva Tip: The Alpha Beta Pads are great to use during the day for that extra wipe down.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

What is the best way I can prepare myself for my skin exam, and should a skin check be part of my annual wellness routine?

-Always Prepared. Sara W.

Dear Always Prepared,

This is an excellent question, and YES, a total body skin exam (TBSE), should be done annually no matter what your past medical history is. It is also never too early to start as skin cancer, particularly melanoma, does not discriminate in age, sex, or ethnicity. The best way to be prepared is to make sure all of your clothing is removed during the exam as skin cancer can show up in areas where the sun does not shine, such as the bottom of feet, genitalia, inside the mouth to name a few areas. Be honest with your answers about sun exposure, family history, sunburns, tanning bed use, and family history of skin cancer. Know your spots before you go in and mention which are new or changing. If you don't know, it's okay, getting an exam and thoroughly evaluated once a year is very important. You will also walk out with educational tools, so you know what to be aware of. If something new shows up, don't wait! Make an appointment to be seen right away, even if you were just seen.

Diva Tip: Visit The Skin Cancer Foundation for information on how to perform a self-exam.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am noticing more facial flushing that started in my mid-20s. Should I be concerned?

-Lisa A. Always Blushing.

Dear Always Blushing,

You could be at the beginning stages of something called Rosacea, which is a skin condition that affects approximately 16 million people in the US. April is Rosacea Awareness Month created to educate the public of this frustrating skin disorder. Symptoms include flushing and blushing that can be exacerbated by certain triggers such as UV exposure, alcohol, spicy foods, and even alcohol-based skincare products. Rosacea can appear at any age with different symptoms but usually presents itself in your 30s, according to the National Rosacea Society. Unfortunately, if left untreated, it can continue to worsen and cause increased dryness, itch, and even acne-like bumps to the face. Your best bet is to get an evaluation by your Board-Certified Dermatologist or their Dermatology PA-C or NP to confirm the diagnosis and make sure there is not an auto-immune component to your symptoms. They will be able to start you on a treatment right away, teach you how to practice good skincare for your skin type, as well as rule out any other diseases that can cause facial flushing.

Diva Tip: Start keeping a journal of your triggers and bring in all the products you are using to your appointment.

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Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Now that spring is around the corner,

should I be changing up my skincare routine?

- Looking Forward to Spring. Kerri S.

Dear Looking Forward to Spring,

This is a great question, and the answer is yes, you may want to consider it. As the temperature increases, so does the humidity, and therefore, the air is not as cold and dry once it becomes warmer outdoors. You can probably back off using thick heavy creams to the body and start incorporating lightweight water-based moisturizing lotions instead. Another tip is to start getting that springtime glow by gently exfoliating the skin to your body and face one time a week to remove the dead skin cells that can contribute to skin dullness. Lastly, you may want to incorporate a mask 1-2X/week to help remove the impurities from the skin, such as pollution, dirt, etc. Lastly, don't forget to continue to wear SPF daily!

Diva Tip: Not all skincare products are created equal; make sure you are familiar with your skin type when choosing exfoliants and masks.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Because of my skin experiencing increased dryness during the colder weather, should I discontinue my retinol in my routine during this time of the year?

- Curious about Retinols. Val K.

Dear Curious about Retinols,

I am so glad you asked as I have a lot of patients curious about this as well. It’s proven that retinol is a perfect product to use to up the ante of your anti-aging defense. That said, it can at least 3 months of use to reap the rewards of this magical potion. Because of this, I say no unless you are experiencing any side effects with the product, such as stinging, burning that is not resolving. You may experience more dryness or some transient mild forms of these types of side effects in which you should make sure you are using a good moisturizer two times daily in addition to possibly adding a hyaluronic acid. You may even want to decrease the use every other day or even replace your current retinol with a milder form. Some Tips: Discontinue when side effects are not improving and contact your Board-Certified Dermatologist for an appointment because you may be experiencing something known as Irritant Contact Dermatitis.

Diva Tip: Retinol from mild to most potent includes retinyl palmitate, retinol, retinaldehyde (AKA retinal), and retinoic acid (AKA Tretinoin).

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

What cleanser do you recommend for oily sensitive skin that won’t be too drying in the winter? I’ve been struggling to find a good one if you have any suggestions.

- Seeking a Good Cleanser. Jen G.

Dear Seeking a Good Cleanser,

This can be quite the challenge as the balance is vital for optimal skin function. The harsh winter months can wreak havoc in all skin types. Despite your skin type, it is crucial to utilize the correct cleanser as it is a great way to remove the debris of our skin that has collected throughout the day, such as make-up, pollution, and even excess oil and dead skin cells. The pH of our skin is more acidic at about a pH of 4.7. For oily complexions, I do recommend more of a foam type of cleanser with a higher pH.

Diva Tip: Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser, La Roche-Posay Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser, you can even use a 5% Benzoyl Peroxide by Topix if you are acne-prone. Just don’t forget your moisturizer and SPF.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I travel a lot for work, is it alright to use the skincare products I get from the hotel?

-Traveling Girl, Amy W.

Dear Traveling Girl,

Though the hotel skincare items are convenient, I recommend only use for emergencies. It is always best to travel with your essentials, such as cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. The hotel products are often full of fragrance and can wreak havoc on your skin. For simplicity, I have sample sizes of my essentials in a mandatory travel bag, so they are not forgotten.

Diva Tip: You may even want to keep a folded pillowcase as the detergents used to wash hotel sheets may be irritating.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I use a 0.5 retinol and vitamin c every night, but my dark spots are now visible WITH makeup on. Help!

-Katie M, Dark Spots and Makeup

Dear Dark Spots & Make-up:

Thank you for inquiring! I love this question! You are missing the most crucial piece, which is using a Broad Spectrum SPF in your routine. Make sure you get a mineral-based one with SPF 30 or more and reapply every two hours and after sweating or swimming. SPF in makeup is NOT enough to protect you. Another problem is our smartphones and computers are contributing to the discoloration, so make sure you have an SPF with Iron Oxide. Lastly, you may even need a prescription to help lighten them in addition to what you are already using. I would strongly recommend getting them checked out by a Board-Certified Dermatologist to make sure they are benign first and don’t delay.

Diva faves: EltaMD Tinted UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 and Epionce Daily Shield Tinted SPF 50.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Now that summer is over, and my tan is fading; I am noticing a lot of discolored patches on my face that are not going away. What is it, and what can I do to get rid of it?

-Anna B, Concerned in Chicago.

Dear Concerned in Chicago,

It sounds like you may have a condition known as melasma, which is caused by cells known as melanocytes. These cells make pigment in your skin and are usually stimulated by sun exposure, but hormones can also play a role. Your best bet is to make sure a Board-Certified Dermatologist evaluates your skin to make sure there are no concerns. There are several RX treatments available, and good results are paired with in-office procedures. All vary in cost, so make sure you choose something you can afford as full treatment will give you the best results. In the meantime, make sure you pick up SPF 30 + with Iron Oxide as the Blue Light from our personal devices may be contributing as well.

Diva faves: Epionce Daily Shield Lotion Tinted SPF 50, Avene Tinted SPF 50.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

There are so many supplements on the market today, how do I know I am getting the best, and do they even work?

Overwhelmed, Nicole T.

Dear Overwhelmed,

I couldn’t agree with you more. It can be overwhelming trying to fi nd the right supplement that targets your needs. Though, in general, more studies are needed for the effectiveness of supplement use, I personally have been taking supplements consistently for over 20 years and will continue to do so. I truly believe in good skin health when treating from within being as important as treating from the outside. When looking for a quality brand, I look for human clinical studies as this gives me more confidence in receiving something that has been researched. Quality of Life Supplements are one of my favorites because of this and I know 100% of their ingredients are backed by clinical studies. They offer bundles that are specifically designed to complement each other so there is reassurance you are taking something that will be safe. My “go-to” is their “Beauty From Within Bundle” which I featured below! Save 10% by using code SAVVYDERM10 and get glowing!

Diva Tip: Just like everything, consistency is key for the best results, and results can vary per individual.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Can you please educate me more on the importance of Vitamin D?

Curious About D, Anna M.

Dear Curious About D,

Vitamin D is a hot topic now as researchers are pointing to people with increased risk of COVID may have low levels of VitD3. Though there is controversy about what is thought to be a normal level (i.e., above 20ng/mL vs. above 30ng/mL), it is always good to get it checked at your doctor's office by a simple blood test. Vitamin D is known to help calcium absorption up to 10X, which we know is important for bone strength. It is estimated we get about 20-40% from diet and around 40-70% from solar. Though I tell people to wear sunscreen because the harm of UV exposure outweighs the benefit, some people do not wear SPF regularly and are still deficient. It is always good to check your level, and if your body needs more Vitamin D then at least 800 IU of Vitamin D Supplementation a day should give you levels above 20ng/mL. Again, other factors could decrease levels, such as chronic illness and even darker skin complexions, so make sure you know your level before starting any supplements.

Diva Tip: Vitamin D is made in the body, which starts as a precursor form that eventually converts to the most abundant circulating form of Vitamin D known as 25(OH)D. This is what is measured with a laboratory test via the blood. Always consult with your physician or PA-C/NP before starting any dietary supplements. To check yours, Schedule HERE! See Daily Vitamin D updates here.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am trying to boost my immune system during the pandemic and am considering incorporating dietary supplements. However, I am reading so much these days about supplements linked to acne flares. Is this true?

Trying to Boost My Immune System, Bob C.

Dear Trying to Boost My Immune System,

I love to hear that you are doing everything you can to stay healthy. Studies have shown that over 50% of Americans take dietary supplements daily. Recent clinical findings have found that acne has been associated with vitamin B (specifically B6 & B12), known as an important component of protecting our immune system. With everything, you must weigh your risk vs. benefit. While taking dietary supplements may boost your immune system (more studies are needed btw), it is always best to inform your dermatologist that you are taking them regularly. What dosage as high doses seem to be more associated with acne flares. That said, a healthy balanced diet and dietary supplement intake may not lead to the flares if taken in the right dose. Too much of anything is never good for anyone.

Diva Tip: Adults should take no more than 100mg of B6 and no more than 2.5mcg B12 daily. However, always consult with your physician before starting any dietary supplements.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Do you have any simple tips for facial washing? There is so much information, but I don’t know what the solid foundational face washing techniques are.

Needing face washing 101, Ted R

Dear Needing face washing 101,

Face washing doesn’t have to be difficult, and for simplicity, you should follow these instructions: Always use a gentle cleanser that is non-abrasive and doesn’t contain alcohol. Using abrasive products or over scrubbing actually leads to more skin irritation. Make sure you limit washing your face to two times a day (morning and night) and after sweating if needed. Using lukewarm water and patting your skin dry with a soft cotton towel is key. Lastly, no matter what your skin type, always apply a moisturizer after you wash your face. If you need guidance on what you should and shouldn't be using, you should make an appointment to be seen. You can see me virtually or in the office.

Diva Tip: For the best product guidance for your skin type, you should always visit a board-certified dermatologist.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

My hands become drier with the cooler weather; they eventually crack and become painful. How do I know if I have eczema or something else?

Needing a Hand, Marisa A

Dear Needing a Hand,

First of all, your problem is not uncommon during the start of the cooler weather. As the temperature cools, the air becomes drier, which can wreak havoc on our skin. Hands are a particular concern because of increased use and washing. Adding a hand-sanitizer to the mix can only make things worse. Typically, eczema is known to be itchier than something like an irritant contact derm secondary to constant exposure to the elements I mentioned. Nonetheless, eczema falls under a big umbrella of many diagnoses that can overlap. If you feel you cannot control your symptoms, you should make an appointment to be seen. You can see me virtually or in the office.

Diva Tip: Always keep a moisturizer around and use after each hand wash and/or sanitizer use. A fave is Eucerin Advanced Repair cream. Find more hand moisturizer faves at my Amazon Store.*

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

My skin care regimen consists of several products in the morning and again in the evening. Is there a particular order I should be focusing on when applying my products for the best results?

-Compliant Skincare Junkie, Theresa W.

Dear Compliant Skincare Junkie,

I am so glad you asked this question! September is National Skin Care Awareness Month and the perfect time to regroup on your skincare routine. I love to hear that you are using multiple products in your regimen to take care of your skin. Using a variety of products is like a symphony creating the perfect melody for optimal/beautiful results. The general rule of thumb is to apply products from thinnest concentration to thickest. It would be best if you also were allowing them to set in before using your next layer. However, if you are on any prescriptions, you should always consult with your Board-Certified Dermatologist of the correct order, so make sure you bring in all of your products when visiting your Dermatologist.

Diva Tip: Be careful as some products do not mix well and can cause reactions. Make sure you speak to a professional when choosing a routine.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I keep seeing the acronym UPF on clothing. What does this exactly mean, and why is it essential for sun protection?

–Tim B., Curious about UPF

Dear Curious about UPF,

Diva Tip: Check out the fashionable finds for men, women, children, and babies at Coolibar 💋

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

-Masking Flares. Amber B.

Dear Masking Flares,

Diva Tip: The Alpha Beta Pads are great to use during the day for that extra wipe down.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

What is the best way I can prepare myself for my skin exam, and should a skin check be part of my annual wellness routine?

-Always Prepared. Sara W.

Dear Always Prepared,

Diva Tip: Visit The Skin Cancer Foundation for information on how to perform a self-exam.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am noticing more facial flushing that started in my mid-20s. Should I be concerned?

-Lisa A. Always Blushing.

Dear Always Blushing,

Diva Tip: Start keeping a journal of your triggers and bring in all the products you are using to your appointment.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am so excited for Spring Break and am considering a few indoor tanning sessions, so I have some color before my trip to Florida. I always sunburn, so I thought a base-line tan would be best to decrease my risk.

- Seeking a Base Tan. Terri H.

Dear Seeking a Base Tan,

Indoor tanning is dangerous and significantly increases your risk of developing melanoma, the most deadly form of skin cancer. The UV radiation from indoor and outdoor sources causes damage to the skin, which can lead to premature aging, immune-suppression, eye-damage, and even other forms of skin cancer. Though sunburns can increase your risk, even more, you would still have a risk of getting a sunburn and skin cancer even with a base-tan. That said, no UV exposure is safe, and therefore, you should always avoid indoor tanning beds, wear SPF of at least 30 or more with reapplication every 1-2 hours when you are outdoors. Finally, make sure you have a Total Body Skin Exam (TBSE) scheduled every year with your Board-Certified Dermatologist to make sure there are no suspicious moles or growths.

Diva Tip: You increase your risk of developing melanoma by 75% if you start indoor tanning before the age of 35.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I keep seeing moisturizers with the terms “humectants” and “emollients.” Why are these two ingredients so important?

- Wanting to know. Karen T.

Dear Wanting to Know,

I love this question because it helps define the importance of the reason we use moisturizers in the first place. Natural humectants such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin are necessary because they moisturize the skin by attracting water from the environment into the skin. Examples of emollients include “oils” or “lipids” such as mineral oil, coconut oil, and shea butter to name a few. They are responsible to soothe and soften the skin by replacing oils (lipids) and preventing water loss. Both synergistically help strengthen the barrier of your skin.

Diva Tip: Gold Bond Healing with Aloe Fragrance-Free Lotion, Gold Bond Eczema Relief Lotion/Cream, or Amlactin Daily Moisturizing Body Lotion.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I note more dryness to my skin during the winter months, I know the weather can affect it but are there other things I should be aware of that can contribute to the dryness?

- Feeling Dry. Mark M.

Dear Feeling Dry,

Dryness can result from any number of things that can remove water from the skin. Dryness contributors include skincare products, weather, and bathing habits, to name a few. The cold, dry weather causes the skin to lose moisture, and to chap or crack. Products with alcohol such as skin toners, aftershaves can dry and irritate the skin. Lastly, hot water and prolonged bathing, which feel fantastic during the cold months, but can lead to increased water loss and dryness. It would be best if you also stayed away from things that can cause increased aggravation, such as scrubbing brushes, granular, or antibacterial soaps. Make sure you use a moisturizer at least once a day and apply within 3 minutes of getting out of the shower to lock in the water that your skin has soaked up.

Diva Tip: Thick creams are better than lotions. I love Avene Xeracalm cream, Epionce Renewal Calming Cream, and Cerave cream

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Is chocolate terrible for my skin (i.e., acne) or is this just a myth, I love indulging during the Holiday Season?

-A true chocoholic, Tammy L.

Dear True Chocoholic,

The excellent news is that “chocolate” per se is not harmful, but it is the SUGAR in the chocolate that can be problematic. A diet with a high glycemic intake from sugar or refined carbohydrates can cause an inflammatory response, which can lead to acne flares. Refined carbohydrates include everything I love during the holidays: pastries, sodas, snacks, white bread, and can also be found in processed foods. Enjoy in moderation, and make sure you are on a good skincare routine and get plenty of zzz’s to control your flares somewhat!

Diva Tip: Diet is an adjunct to proper skincare, and sometimes the holidays get the best of us. Be sure to have your Derm on speed dial just in case!

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I would love to learn how to fix under eye blueness!

-Melissa R, Feeling Blue.

Dear Feeling Blue,

Yes, such frustration! Let’s talk undereye circles in general. There can be several causes of under-eye discoloration that may be happening synergistically: sleep deprivation, dehydration, genetics, allergies (hay-fever), aging, dry skin. That being said, all can contribute and accentuate the problem. With under-eye “blueness” tells me it is more vascular, which may be a genetic component. Aging makes it worse. As we age, the skin thins even more due to the loss of collagen, and the discoloration is more prominent. Aging also causes a loss of fat and bone, which can also contribute. An option for you you may be a topical that has caffeine. Lasers can help improve the elasticity of the skin and may target the hemoglobin contributing to the discoloration, and finally, fillers or fat transfers in an option which can be expensive and have increased side effects but worth the results if done correctly. All three would be optimal for the best results.

Diva Tip: I always recommend starting with a good eye cream. Though it will not be a miracle treatment, it is still important to have whether you do additional therapies or not. A Diva Fave is Teamine by Revision.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am noticing a white patch under my chin along with a splotchy discoloration surrounding it. Should I be concerned?

-Diana N, Looking Splotchy.

Dear Looking Splotchy,

What you have described is something called “Poikiloderma of Civatte,” which is a condition caused by chronic sun exposure (aka photodamage). You can appreciate that white, “normal skin” under your chin secondary to the shade it is providing to the area. Always make sure you wear an SPF 30 or higher all year round. Though it can be tough to treat, please make sure you have the area evaluated and monitored for any concerning growths because of the chronic sun damage.

Diva Tip: Your computers and personal devices may contribute to the discoloration of your skin, protect your skin with Diva SPF Faves.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Do I need to wear SPF every day? I work at home and rarely go outside during the day unless I am getting the mail or walking the dog which doesn’t take long. Am I getting that much exposure to the sun?

-Brittany M, Keepin it Indoors

Dear Keeping it Indoors,

The answer is an absolute yes! The UV radiation from the sun is potent and can even penetrate windows, causing the skin to damage. Also, if you go out for a few minutes daily, all of that accumulation of sun exposure can wreak havoc on your skin years later. Start wearing SPF now, and you will thank me years from now. Promise!

Diva Tip - Make sure you choose an SPF 30 or higher and reapply every 1-2 hours or after sweating or swimming for the best results.

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

I am hearing that my personal devices, such as my cell phone, laptop, etc. are contributing to the pigmentation on my face, chest, and neck. Is this true?

-Cary W, Seeking the Truth

Dear Seeking the Truth,

Yes, unfortunately, it is true. All personal devices emit High Energy Visible Radiation (HEV Light) or Blue Light. This form of light is responsible for regulating our circadian rhythm but can contribute to pigmentation produced by melanocytes, cells that makes up our skin color. It has also been found to be instrumental in causing damage to your skin (aka photo-aging = wrinkles). Your best bet is to start wearing an SPF 30+ with iron oxide.

Diva Tip - SPF with iron oxide are usually found in a tinted version.

Got Questions?

Write your skin related questions or your favorite finds to Savvy Derm Diva and your request may be featured in our monthly column. Your name will be kept in confidence (if requested) as the goal of this column is to assist everyone with proper skin care. MUAH!

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

What should I do to get glowing skin?

- @rachelmichella

Dear @rachelmichella,

Thank you for writing to the Diva! Glowing skin is as easy as 1, 2 3! 1. Washing your face with a glycolic acid cleanser to exfoliate the skin gently. 2. A moisturizer with SPF to offer protection and hyaluronic acid to add hydration. 3. Nightly retinols for anti-aging and gentle exfoliation. This nightly for a few months will help aid in a naturally glowing skin! It is always best to see a medical provider so he or she can help guide you to the correct products for your skin type.

Diva Tip - Just start this routine slowly, because it may cause irritation in the beginning. MUAH!

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

How do I combat major dry skin?

- @peplumnbubblegum

Dear @peplumnbubblegum,

We all know that winter time can be rough on the skin, but now that spring has finally arrived it is so important to take care of your skin all year around! My tips are to wash your body with a gentle cleanser like Dove bar or CeraVe bar and only cleaning “dirty” areas such as the groin and armpits. Do not over-scrub with a loofah or washcloth. Within 5 minutes of getting out of the shower to apply a moisturizer and make sure you do this EVERY single day, I love any of these three LaRoche Posay Lipikar Balm, Gold Bond Eczema or Diabetic Cream, and Avene Xeracalm during the tough winter months, but I do have many patients using them year round. Now that spring is here; you can easily transition to a lotion and keep up the same routine. Restart your cream based moisturizers in the fall. If your skin is not improving, make sure you make an appointment to see your Board Certified Dermatologist to rule out any other causes. Best of luck and please keep me posted.

Diva Tip - Stay away from hot showers! MUAH!

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Get Glowing

Be Skin Savvy!

YOUR CHANCE TO ASK THE DIVA

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Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Dear Curious about UPF,

Got a Skin Care Q?

Dear Savvy Derm Diva,

Dear Curious about UPF,

About

Be Skin Savvy Blog

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